Wobbling Winos: Day 22 - Vremski Britof to Ljubljana.

Day 22. Vremski Britof to Ljubljana. 99 km, 5hrs45.

An early start as we planned a long day in the saddle. We climbed over the mountains before dropping into the Sava and Ljubljana river basins. The vegetation has become ever more alpine, with few oak trees and plenty of pines. Roses are in full flower in Croatia but still in bud here. The peonies are magnificent.

The tourist information in Vrhnika (there's a name to get your tongue around) advised us to take a small country road to Ljubljana via Bistra and Borovnica. This is a delightful route through small attractive villages overlooking what was previously a huge marsh, but is now cultivated. It is serious hay fever season here so the Spersallerg drops are flowing like water.

Ljubljana is immediately appealing. The university is close to the centre so there are students on bicycles or sitting in sidewalk cafes everywhere. There are 60000 students at Ljubljana University - there are no fees so most students study for 7 years. The whole of the old city centre is traffic-free, apart from bicycles. The atmosphere is both relaxed and vibrant. No policemen are to be seen. The fact that the main square is named after a poet (Presernov) and not another politician or military commander speaks volumes about the city.

The Ljubljana castle overlooks the city, which is built around the Ljubljana river. The old buildings are impressive with the added touch of the famous architect Joze Plecnik who is to Ljubljana as Gaudi is to Barcelona. The history of Ljubljana is long and eventful; Jason supposedly stopped here for the winter on his way home with the Golden Fleece. On the trade route between the Mediterranean and the Black Sea, it has seen influence from the Slavs, Germanics, Italians, Crusaders, Hapsburg Austrians, Napoleon's army, followed by an eventful Nazi resistance and then the Tito communist era.

We found a restaurant serving Slovenian food, so it was goulash with polenta for supper. We spent our time there chatting to an American couple who were interested in the rhino situation in South Africa. It turned out that the husband, Doug Dvorak, is an international motivational speaker and author.