Day 15. Carbis Bay to Penzance via Lands End.

Day 15. Carbis Bay to Penzance via Lands End.

A cool cloudy morning, but fortunately the rain stayed away. After a breakfast of yoghurt and fruit, we climbed away from Carbis Bay on small lanes zigzagging through the hills. Most of the time we had no idea where we were, but it was very pretty nonetheless.

We had decided to go to Lands End via Penzance rather than take the B road from Carbis Bay. From the top of the hill overlooking Mount's Bay, we saw that it would be better to go directly down to Marazion on Cycle route 3 and then along the coast to Penzance. We had coffee stop overlooking St Michael's Mount, and then followed the cycle path through Penzance and Newlyn to the attractive fishing village of Mousehole. The brutal climb out of Mousehole saw us pushing and panting our way up. A few steep climbs further we reached St Buryan, and then had an easy route through Sennen to Land's End.

Like St Ives and St Michael's Mount, Land's End was seething with tourists, so after the obligatory photo and a sandwich we headed back to Penzance for a Korev near the harbour. We chatted to a young couple from Leeds at Land's End who were just setting off to John O'Groats on fancy carbon frame bikes (without panniers) and were planning more than 120 km per day for 12 days. Good luck to them - not the way we choose cycle.

Our Airbnb in Penzance was a room in a communal house - very relaxed. Pubs in the area were mostly closed being Monday or fully booked. We eventually found a spot at the Dolphin Inn where we had a decent supper of fish and potatoes done in various ways. We will still have to find Jen some of the local Newlyn crab to try.

We were actually quite sad to reach the end of the land as it meant a lovely trip was drawing to a close. We have a day in Penzance when we will visit Tremenheere Garden and St Michaels Mount, before catching the train back to London for a few days with Gilly and Mitch.

The bikes have gone without a hitch except for one puncture at Camel Valley and a change of brake pads in Camelford. Having got over saddle-sore, we were feeling comfortable for long periods on the bikes. The hills of Devon and Cornwall were more testing than we anticipated - I don't think I have ever changed gear quite or got my heart rate up to max so often  - but the views and scenery were beautiful. The drivers were courteous and tolerant of our slow pace; the food was better than expected; the beer was good although room temperature ale doesn't do much for me after a day sweating on a bike. So we generally stuck to lager.

Time to start planning again!

Day 14. Portreath to Carbis Bay.

Day 14. Portreath to Carbis Bay. 39 km

The first day of rain since we started our trip. We left quite late waiting for the rain to abate but when it hadn't stopped by 10:00 we put on our wet gear and waived goodbye to Gill and Mitch. 

It was quite a slog with persistent rain and a head wind until lunchtime. We got onto route 3 and followed it to Camborne through the town and onto Carnell Green and Gwinear on small country roads. The small country road network in England never ceases to amaze me how it joins up the smalles sellements to the outside world.

Feeling cold and wet, we stopped in Hayle to pick up some lunch from the Spar where I asked the shop attendant if there was a Pub close by that had a good Sunday roast. She sent us off to the Old Quay House which had a good view of the Hayle estuary. We were not disappointed the lunch was delicious and great to keep warm and dry off until the rain stopped. We had some time to spare and did some birding along the estuary. Nothing much to see except some Gulls, Malard duck and a lone Eurasian Curlew. We also stopped in at the railway station at The Saltings which was also recommended for good birding, but nothing there either. The tide was quite far out and not the season for waders. The waders come in winter on their way to warmer climes.

The last leg of our trip remained dry into Carbis Bay. Not too many hills and a pleasant cycle. We found our Air B&B easily and strolled down to the beach for a late afternoon beer as it had cleared up nicely.

Day 13. Exploring the Lizard Peninsula.

Day 13. Exploring the Lizard Peninsula.

A very windy morning so gave up on any idea of surfing, and headed off to the Lizard Peninsula by car with Gilly and Mitch. We parked above Kynance Cove and had a good walk down to the beach and then up on the cliffs on the far side. 

The sea was wild in the cove, a dramatic sight with the ragged cliffs. It still didn't deter a few intrepid surfers who were being thrown around like socks in a washing machine.

We stopped off at Porthleven for lunch. This is a less touristy village than either Port Isaac and St Ives, but very attractive. The St Austell Korev lager was as good as anywhere else too. Rick Stein joined us for lunch where we enjoyed fish, mussels and chips with Sharpes Lager and a Spanish white - a real treat.

Day 12. Rest Day. Surfing at Gwithian and a visit to St Ives.

Day 12. Rest Day. Surfing at Gwithian and a visit to St Ives.

We set off to Gwithian, a 15 minute drive towards St Ives at 09:00, so that Mitch could go surfing and Ian could go body boarding. The tide was out but the waves looked good for surfing, so the boys slipped on their wetsuits and set off for the Ocean. Gill and I had a lovely long walk along the beach towards Carbis Bay and St Ives. It must be a popular surf spot as almost everyone making their way down to the beach had a surfboard or bodyboard tucked under their arm.We made it back just as they were getting out of the water, having had two hours of great surfing.

As we hit the B3301 we joined all the happy holiday makers as we snaked our way slowly along the beautiful Cornish coast. As we drove through the narrow streets we realized that parking was going to be a challenge but we managed to follow some signs that took us right to the very top of the town,where we found the last available parking bay. It was quite a walk down into the picturesque village bulging with tourists.

St Ives is known for it's many art galleries and sports the St Ives Tate which we did not visit. 

Lunch was a delicious Cornish Pasty from Warrens Bakery that is one of the many that claim to bake the Best Cornish Pasty in towns, which we ate on steps of the war memorial before strolling through the quaint streets passed shops and fisherman's cottages in search of art galleries. We were not disappointed and found a few gems, pity we had no space to fit a canvas or two!!

We walked along the harbor where the boats were resting on their sides as it was low tide before heading back to the car.

Dinner was a delicious Greek chicken and a great bottle of Pinot Grigio back in Portreath.