Day 56. Montbeliard to Besancon. 108km, 6h15.
An early descent down the precipitous staircase of the old hotel (massive keys with huge brass numbers attached) and we were straight onto the Eurovelo 6 at the front door. Initially we had a flat cycle along the somewhat stagnant canal, but were soon faced with a solid climb as the sides of the valley steepened.
During the course of the morning the scenery improved dramatically. Limestone cliffs and forests replaced flat wheat fields, and the canal joined the Doubs River which became progressively bigger as we pedaled west. We passed numerous weirs with locks alongside.
At lunch time we stopped at Baume les Dames and found a charcuterie selling take-away meals of the day, so we enjoyed cannelloni and stuffed chicken breasts in the town square. This is definitely the way to go in France, a decent home-cooked meal at a fraction of restaurant prices. We were joined there by a Swiss couple who were cycling through and around the Franche-Comte. They gave us some good advice about cycling in Brittany should we get that far - they were told about rhinos in return .
The cycle path became busier as we approached Besancon. The route into the city first followed the extensive and impressive city ramparts. The old town of Besancon is situated in a tight loop of the Doubs River. We weaved our way through very crowded streets to the TI at the Hotel de Ville to get a map of the town. We had a long and hilly cycle to our overnight stop, which was a lot further from the city centre than we anticipated. Such are the joys of Internet bookings with their euphemistic descriptions.
Oh, when will hotels realize that people do wash clothes and need somewhere to hang them? It is as though they purposely make it difficult by having those flipping hangers that can't be removed and nowhere to attach a short washing line. Well, all they get for their obstructiveness is water dripping on windowsills and traction on the bathroom fittings. Paying guests will always need to wash clothes!
Just needed to have a whinge as our chamois (butt) cream is finished so am uncomfortable - will have to find a cycle shop soon.Early morning on the Doubs River.
The barges also have tricky choices - one of three ways to go.
New Eurovelo 6 information towers. A lot of recent improvements have been made to the route in France.
Besancon - cycled there last year! My nephew, Adam Campbell from Grahamstown, is studying the saxaphone at the Conservatoire there so he was my guide around the place. So glad you've sent me the link to your blog - it is brilliant! The photos are amazing. I really hope we'll have a chance to meet and exchange experiences sometime. I guess you will be following the route I took in reverse - down the Loire-a Velo and then Nantes-Brest Canal? Go well!!
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