Wobbling Winos: Day 36 - Riedling-Sitzenberg to Weissenkirchen.

Day 36. Riedling-Sitzenberg to Weissenkirchen in der Wachau. 51km, 3h20.

After a typical continental breakfast with excellent coffee (Julius Meinl) at the friendly and homely Gasthaus Smidt, we set off back to Zwentendorf (9km) to rejoin the Danube. After passing two power stations (most of Austria's power is hydro) we crossed over to the northern side of the river. The Danube is 480m wide at this point.

If I was a poet, I would write an ode to the good saddle. There is a lot written about the ideal type of saddle for cycle touring. One's intuition says that softer is better for the long road. However soft means prolonged pressure on the soft tissues with discomfort and even the risk of urological problems. Rather, weight should be transferred through the ischial tuberosities (sit bones). So a hard saddle is better, and many tourers use old fashioned Brooks leather saddles. I am so much more comfortable with my new hard and narrow saddle.

A long straight cycle on the river bank brought us to Krems an der Donau on the eastern side of the Wachau wine region. Another good coffee - Lavazza this time - and then a wander through the narrow cobbled streets, pushing our bikes through the crowds. Krems is a charming but touristy old town.

We had a short cycle to Durnstein through vineyards which clamber up the steep mountainsides. Durnstein clings to the mountain overlooking the Danube. There is a single cobbled street through the village with gates in the city wall at each end. Richard the Lionheart was interned above Durnstein in Kuenringerburg castle (now a ruin) in 1192 for insulting Leopold V. He was released on payment of 35000kg of silver, which funded the building of Wiener Neustadt (see Day 32).

We stopped at Domane Wachau, a cooperative winery supplied by 250 growers along the river. We were given an interesting and generous tasting of Gruner Veltliner and Rhine Riesling from different regions of the Wachau. The quality and price of the wines increases with the alcohol concentration, from steinfeder at less than 11%, to federspiel and then smaragd at more than 12,5%. We particularly enjoyed the wines from the cooler western region.

A few kilometers further we reached Wiessenkirchen, another charming wine-producing village of the Wachau. There are many small wineries lining the narrow lanes, again taking turns in hosting a heurigen. Locals pop in for a glass of wine and simple platters of meat, pâté, or cheese. We followed this excellent example. (The Heurigen Calendars are available at the tourist office in each town.)

We have seen a number of cyclists pulling trailers; a few with small children tucked up inside, one with a dog, and a baker delivering rolls in a huge basket. So refreshing to see!

We are staying at Gasthaus Heller, one of many in Weissenkirchen. The Wachau is a popular tourist destination so is more expensive than other areas. It is however one of the most beautiful wine-growing regions we have ever seen.