Day 34. Vienna.
A day to do a few chores and get a feel for Vienna. The chores were to find a bank to get a few Euros, to find a sports shop for new cycling shorts for both of us, and to find a bicycle shop for a new saddle as mine is too soft, wide and uncomfortable. This all involved a serious amount of walking, but with eventual success. The Trek bicycle shop was most helpful and measured me up for the correct size saddle - what a difference!
Along the way we stopped for coffee at Pruckel Kafeehaus which was recommended by our landlord as a typical Viennese establishment. The coffee was very good (and hot!), and we enjoyed the relaxed atmosphere. We also looked in at St Stephan's Cathedral. It certainly is one of the world's most magnificent cathedrals. It's amazing to think it was built from 1359 onward; it's massive, but with the most intricate detail both inside and out.
Vienna is impressive. The sheer size and opulence are staggering. The Habsbergs certainly knew how to show off - and that's what they were doing - but they built a city that must rank in the top 5 worldwide. We thought that Belvedere Palace was big until we were confronted with the Hofberg Palace complex. The Volksgarten adjacent to Hofberg has a massive collection of roses with numerous specimen standard roses and mass plantings all in full bloom. Other big cities almost seem frivolous in comparison - Vienna has a gravitas that we have not experienced elsewhere.
An interesting change from the Baroque architecture were the buildings designed in the early 20th century by the architect Loos. He was the first designer to express the opinion that "form should follow function", a highly controversial concept at the time. Examples of his work are Looshaus on Michaeler Platz and the American Bar near Stephan Platz. We completed our day having a plate of goulash at the Cafe Central, an old watering hole of Adolf Loos.
Staying in an apartment was great as we could spread out, get washing done, and eat home cooked meals. There was a really cheap supermarket, Hoffer, and a superb specialty grocer, Gomes, a block away.
Interior of St Stephan's.
A small part of Hofberg winter palace.
Volksgarten.
The size and intensity of the blooms was amazing.
The controversial Looshaus.
Cafe Central.
The Vienese weakness.
It is nice to see the photos you post on FB, but so much nicer to follow your story on the blog. My only advice (as a scrapbooker!) is to include yourselves in the pictures more often! Go well... till the next posting....
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