Tuesday, 10 June 2014

Day 40 - Passau to Zaundorf.

Day 40. Passau to Zaundorf. 37 km, 2h10.

We were planning a rest day in Passau today but it is a holiday (Pentecost) so everything is closed. So we decided on rather doing a short cycle to a tiny village further west instead. Again an absolutely perfect day, so it's difficult to imagine the cold and wet conditions back home.

After a decent breakfast in the bahnhof, we weaved our merry way out of Passau. The scenery has improved a lot since the area immediately east of Passau. Forests or farms came down to the banks, and we had a good cycle path which alternated between asphalt and macadam surfaces. The signposting so far in Germany has been good with the name of the next town and the distances well displayed. We hope this continues. 

There were many fishermen dotted along the bank, and being a holiday, the cyclists were out in force. We had our compulsory coffee stop at an airfield - Jenny had rhubarb juice which was novel and refreshing.

At Hofkirchen we turned off the Donau Radweg to get to Zaundorf, the small village where we are spending the night. We had forgotten that away from the river means hills, so we were faced with our first serious climb since Semmering Pass nine days ago. It was hot, but the cold Helles beer waiting at the top made it worthwhile. 

There are two styles of readily available beer in this area: Helles, a Pilsener style lager, but with more malty sweetness and less hops bitterness. (Helles means light, but that refers to the color, not the caloric or alcohol counts). They tend to slip down the throat very easily. Then there are Weissbiers or Hefeweizen beers, which translates to yeast-wheat. These are served in tall glasses, are slightly cloudy and taste slightly of bananas and cloves - delicious. Bavaria has heaps of other styles, particularly darker beer, but the weather is hot here now so it's the thirst-quenchers that are needed.  

So now we are in the land of socks and sandals for men and women - immediately apparent on crossing the border from Austria. The menus have a bigger variation on pork. Cabbage and knodels are ever present in the scope of our budget. There is a wider selection of beer and smaller choice of wine - but this is Bavaria after all. 

Breakfast at the railway station restaurant.

On leaving Passau.

Another Danube ferry.

The wheat has ripened in the last 3 days.

Vilshofen.

Climbing away from the Danube to Zaundorf.

1 comment:

  1. Just spent some time catching up on your blog - what an amazing adventure. Lovely to be able to share your journey through your blog. Love to you both and enjoy your ride!,

    ReplyDelete

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Ian and Jenny.