Wobbling Winos: Day 45: Sonderheim to Ulm.

Day 45: Sonderheim to Ulm 71 km 4:15

Our batteries were a little flat today after our marathon cycle yesterday, so we took it easy, through much the same terrain as yesterday. The path passed through beautiful sections of forest and left the river periodically to meander through farmlands. The rye is changing colour, it won't be long before it is harvested.

The Danube seems to be an area free for all, where one can camp anywhere. As the weekend approaches the number of fishermen and camper vans have increased. The Danube has become more pond like and we were able to add a few more bird species to our list, Grebe, Black Kite, Moorhen and Woodpecker.

We noticed a change in the architecture as we made our way to Ulm. We have seen quite a few half wood- timbered houses in the villages we have passed through. There were some beautiful examples at the picturesque town of Gunzberg where we stopped for coffee. A brass band was playing in the town square; it is wonderful how many small villages along the way have entertainment for the residents in the summer.

The cycle from Gunzberg to our overnight stop in Ulm (Albert Einstein's birthplace) was easy and we made it to our overnight accommodation in good time. As we were staying in the Donau Hotel, Neu Ulm, we took a brisk walk over the bridge to the old town where the Munster, Lutheran Cathedral, dominates the skyline. At 165,5 m, the spire is the tallest church spire in the world. The interior of Munster is quite simple in comparison with the Catholic Cathedrals we have seen. We found the simplicity quite refreshing. It's structure is gothic, with massive stained glass windows. The choir stalls from the 15C have been beautifully crafted from oak.

The Rathaus was seriously damaged in WWll and restored again with beautiful murals depicting the seven virtues. The clock is magnificently adorned with the signs of the zodiac embossed in gold. As we ambled through the quaint streets, we stumbled on the Fischerviertel quarter diagonally behind the Rathaus. The narrow alley ways are lined with crooked half- timber houses propping each other up along the clear Blau river. The fishermen lived and sold their daily catch at the Mark Platz here. This is a real gem on the banks of the Danube.

The promenade on the top of the old city wall winds its way above the old city where there are beautiful panoramic views of the Danube and Ulm. While walking along the promenade, we came upon the beautiful Ulm rose garden. It is beautifully laid out and was win full bloom. There were many varieties that we recognized.

Dinner was at a biergarten at one of the local breweries where I sampled the Marzen beer and Ian the dark Georg beer with good Schwabische fair.