Wobbling Winos: Day 42 - Koessnach to Regensburg.

ODay 42. Koessnach to Regensburg. 48km, 2h20.

We started early to get to Regensburg as we only have one night here, and the reception of the pension closes from 11am to 4pm. So we upped the tempo and averaged >20km/hr which on touring bikes is almost flying. It worked well as we could book into our room, shower and do the washing before heading off to explore the old city.

On our way here we again cycled through wheat, rye, canola and pea fields, and alongside the Bavarian Forest. We passed the Walhalla monument, a crib of the Parthenon in Athens, which was built by Ludwig I in 1842 to honour great Germans. There were initially 162 figures honoured - more have been added since. Legend has it that "Wallhall" is the place where the Nordic god of gods, Odin, welcomed fallen heroes to his table.

We knew very little about Regensburg (I only knew the rose of the same name), but it is a popular tourist destination and is one of the best preserved old cities of Germany. The enormous Gothic cathedral (St Peter's) has one of the highest steeples in Europe, and Regensburg boasts the oldest functional bridge in Germany, the Stone Bridge (300m long and built in the early 12th century!). Kepler of astronomy, not cricket, fame lived and worked in Regensburg - unfortunately the Kepler Museum only opens on weekends. There is also a Golf Museum, displaying the world's oldest golf club (1450) and golf ball (1525).

We found a fantastic map shop in the town square and bought the Bikeline Danube Bike trail map and info book in English which I had been unable to source from Amazon or Stanfords. What a pleasure!

Regensburg is situated at the most northerly point of the Danube. The old city is worth exploring, with Roman ruins, the magnificent cathedral, narrow pedestrian streets, old breweries and beer gardens in quiet courtyards off the town square. We enjoyed an excellent goulash for supper in one of these old establishments. We had decided to go to an organ recital in the evening in the cathedral, so had bought tickets. The program was called "Four centuries of French organ music". I'm afraid the music was very complicated and was totally lost on me. Jarring wrath of the gods stuff. So sitting still and silently on the most uncomfortable pew benches I've ever encountered for 90 minutes brought back memories of double Afrikaans classes.