Day 54. A day in Colmar, Alsace.

Day 54. A day in Colmar, Alsace.

The Alsace wine region lies just north of Mulhouse, and as we had cycled every day for the last twenty, we decided to have a rest and to leave the bikes in Mulhouse and catch a train to Colmar for the night. We had initially thought of cycling there; what would have taken us 4 hours by bike took 16 minutes by train. The French railway system really is amazing.

The vineyards on the southern slopes of the Vosges mountains were evident as we approached Colmar across the plains. The old town of Colmar is immediately appealing. It is a maze of cobblestone streets lined with characterful and colourful half-timber houses, and pots of red and white petunias and geraniums. 

On the good advice from the TI we found our way to the outlet of the Domaine Viticole de la Ville de Colmar winery in the centre of Colmar. There the young and enthusiastic sales lady gave us an excellent and extensive tasting of a range of their Rieslings, Pinot Gris and Gewürztraminers with a Grand Cru of each cultivar from the 2009 to 2012 vintages, as well as their 2011 Pinot Noir. We particularly liked the Cuvée de Unterlinden 2009 and the Hengst Pinot Gris Grand Cru 2010. The Pinot Noir was both austere and intense - a serious but beautifully structured wine.

The Alsace Rieslings have a higher alcohol concentration and are dryer than those from Germany; the Pino Gris wines are sweeter. Surprisingly, in spite of being quite far north, the Alsace vineyard region is one of the driest wine regions in France with a rainfall of less than 600mm per year.

Having been thoroughly spoiled at this winery, we stopped in at Karcher, a smaller family-run cellar. Here we tasted an acidic 2012 Riesling, a sweet Pinot Gris and very floral Gewürztraminer. By this stage we needed a meal, so wobbled into the Les Racines Restaurant for their excellent plat de jour of roast beef followed by strawberries.

After exploring the town further and settling into our distant lodgings we visited Martin Jund  wine cellar. Here the relaxed and friendly winemaker opened numerous bottles to show us their full range of 5 different Rieslings from different terroirs, as well as their 2012 Gewürztraminer (which he recommended should accompany the local Munster cheese) and an outstanding 2008 Pinot Gris late harvest. The difference between the Rieslings grown on granite soil compared to clay soils was marked. We particularly enjoyed his 2010 Grand Cru Riesling from the granite Brand Vineyard.   

We huddled in light rain under an umbrella on a quiet park bench for an evening picnic of the Cuvée de Unterlinden Riesling (a unanimous WWS 9), baguette and a round of Munster cheese. This is a soft intense cows' milk cheese which some may call strong and pungent but we really enjoyed it. 

A thoroughly good day! Tomorrow we will be ready for the bikes again. We would have loved to have spent a few days cycling around the Alsace but the Atlantic is calling and we  have only a month left.

Street scene in Colmar.

The shop signage in Alsace is elaborate and fun. 

Half timber houses struggle to stay upright.

Getting some support from the railing after an extensive tasting.

Lunch time in France. No one on the street, everyone eating.

Decisions decisions.

The Little Venice section of Colmar.

And again.

Picnic in the park.

The local Munster cheese.