Monday, 9 June 2014

Day 39 - Haibach to Passau

Day 39. Haibach ob der Donau to Passau. 50 km,2:45.

We had a leisurely start today as we had a short distance to cover. By the time we left at 09:00, it was already hot and the temperature rose consistently until it reached 30 deg. Fortunately we cycled on a tree lined path covered in dappled shade for 7 km to the ferry which we took to cross to the other side of the river. The cycle path runs on both sides of the river, but the side we were on ran next to a large road.

Before we knew it we had crossed into Germany which was pretty uneventful, just a different surface on the road. The route stayed along a road for the rest of the way to Passau. The stretch to Passau is where half of the river is in Germany and half in Austria.

The Inn and Ils rivers meet the Danube in Passau which is known as the Dreiflussestadt ( three rivers town ). The main attraction in this quaint town is the magnificent St Stephan's Cathedral with its three onion-domes. It houses the  second biggest organ in the world. It consists of five different sections and can be played one section at a time or all five together. Unfortunately we were unable to attend a performance as it is the Pentecost long weekend, so no performance tomorrow.

The cathedral was completely gutted in the 1662 fire that destroyed most of the old town. The cathedral was rebuilt in the Baroque style by an Italian architect and the magnificent interior stucco and frescos were done by Italian baroque artists as well.

The Danube has burst its banks many times over the centuries and Passau has borne the brunt of it. There is a flood line indicator on the wall of the Rathaus showing when the floods occurred and how high the water was. One of the highest flood lines was marked in 2013 when it rose by more than 5 meters. The highest line was logged in 1522!

We bumped into the Dutch couple, Peter and Ellie who we met in Wallsee at  Gashaus Harbinger. Peter said that he had read an article about Rhino Poaching in a Dutch newspaper and that he would email it to us. So amazing that we bumped into them again and that the rhino poaching struck a chord with them.

We loved Austria for the courteous drivers, clean towns, friendly people, good wine, beautiful gentle rolling green hills along the Danube, the diversity of the countryside, the beautiful architecture in the cities we visited, and the safety of the country. We had always thought of Austria as a winter holiday destination, but it is just as beautiful and interesting in summer. However we are schnitzeled out now.  

Early morning on the Austrian Danube.

Ferry crossing.

The rye is as high as Jennifer's eye - with apologies to Rogers and Hammerstein.

Passau with the River Inn on the left and Danube on the right.

The flood water levels marked on in the town square. The 2013 level was even higher and Jenny is a giant.

The Baroque ceiling with frescos in St Stephan's Cathedral. 

Europe's largest organ. 

Begonia window box.

The River Inn alongside Passau.

Sometimes you just need a beer!

St Stephan's in the evening.

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Best wishes,
Ian and Jenny.