Day 17. Boppard to Cochem.

FDay 17. Boppard to Cochem. 80 km. 4h47.

We woke up to a grey morning yet again. After an excellent breakfast at Mittelrhein Pension we set off towards Koblenz, following the Rhine with a few diversions for "hochwasser" due to the recent floods in Southern Bavaria. At Koblenz we reached the confluence of the Rhine and Moselle rivers (Deutches Eck) with an absolutely massive statue of German Emperor William I.

After leaving Koblenz and the bus and ferry-loads of tourists and geriatric cyclists, we soon entered the wine-producing region with the steepest mountainside vineyards we have ever seen. The vines are planted in rocky slate with the rows orientated downhill to aid drainage. It so steep that no machinery can be used, apart from almost vertical "rail tracks" to move harvested grapes. 

In the village of Winningen we were fortunate to find Weingut Richard Richter, where the seventh generation winemaker and viticulturist gave us a most interesting and generous tasting of his dry Riesling wines. These ranged from those grown on the silt soils in the valley to those from the slate terraces (Felsenterrassen) and then the steeper slopes above (Bruckstuck Terrassen). These terraces were first built by the Romans 2000 years ago. The complexity and quality of these wines from the slate terraces was an absolute treat; fruit, minerals, acid, honey, length - something we have never tasted before, and worth the all the tired legs crossing Germany. What a special experience! He could not have been more accommodating informative.

Richard also makes a Pinot Noir (not tasted) and a bubbly (both Riesling and Pinot Noir), which they have been producing for the past 120 years in the MC style. We enjoyed a glass before supper - a very refreshing, Prosceco-like wine. 

They have a total of seven hectares of vineyard in four different areas. This is done as a form of protection against the frequent localized hailstorms which invariably wipe out one of the blocks. They take great pride in the special terroir of the Moselle, the pay-off line on their marking brochure  being "taste the slate". 

The Moselle river was flowing hard with short sections of the cycle path underwater. The surrounding hills with numerous castles and small villages made for ever-changing and interesting scenery. The river snakes its way through the hills with vineyards planted on the south-facing aspects. 

We stopped for a roll and beer along the way. We still needed to make few diversions for flood water, before arriving in the old town of Cochem. It is quite touristy, but fortunately we were staying just south of the town in a old renovated house with a lovely garden. We had cooking facilities so after enjoying a bottle of Richard Richter Sekt (German MCC made from Riesling - very lively and refreshing) we cooked sausages for dinner. A Richard Richter Trocken Riesling 2015 (WWS 8) was a great accompaniment.