Wobbling Winos: Terrasini to farm near Balata di Baida.

RDay 2: Terrasini to farm near Balata di Baida. 56 km.

A clear warm day with a moderate breeze off the sea. We had a good Sicilian breakfast at Le Oasi with our friendly host serving fine coffee. Fruit, yoghurt, salami and cheese was substantial enough to get us to Scopello. We chatted to an American family (a cardiologist and his genetic engineering son) who were suitably sheepish and embarrassed by their president who is currently in Sicily for the G7 conference.

We wound our way along the coast, with a few short sections of gravel, through the towns of Trappeto, Balestrate and Castellamare. These are all popular beach resorts in the summer, but fortunately still quite quiet. Garmy got off to a good start, and we would have got seriously without her. Just hope she doesn't get pmts while we're here. It was great having the sea on our right and mountains on our left most of the day. There were a few hilly excursions past olive and lemon orchards just to remind us that Sicily is not a flat island.

We reached the charming village of Scopello where we had a picnic in the main square. This was previously a tuna fishing village, but now obviously survives on summer tourism with heaps of restaurants, pizzerias and gelaterias.

Lunch of ham, tomatoes and peaches was followed by a serious climb into the hills away from the coast to our farm accommodation, Agriturismo Finazzo. It is perched on the top of a hill looking back at the sea. Our German/Sicilian hostess provided the required beers and water to protect our kidneys.

Dinner was a typical Sicilian affair - a huge plate of antipasto of all sorts of pine nut, tomato, spinach, polenta, cold meat, olive, mushroom combinations with seriously similar and confusing names, followed by delicious long pork sausages with roast potatoes in lemon and rosemary, then deep fried doughnut-like treats and limoncello, washed down with vino rosso drain cleaner (WW4).