Monday 29 May 2017

Day 3. Balata di Baida to Trapani.

Day 3: 69 km from Balata di Baida to Trapani.

Well we set off uphill - not good when we have not warmed up yet. This was a taste of what was to come today- a very hilly ride. With the warm sun on our backs, the infinite eggshell blue sky and the breathtaking Sicilian countryside opening up in front of us, we made our way through small villages and along country roads lined with scabiosa, copper dill, lace flower, convulvulous and broom, the scent of which is heady. 

As it was only 30 km to Trapani we decided to take a detour to San Vito Lo Capo on the North western tip of Sicily. We climbed most of the way to Castelluzzo, and then it was a long downhill to Baia Santa Margherita and beyond there was a steep climb to San Vito Lo Capo which we did not do as we had to head back another 40 km to Trapani. The buildings in the architecture in villages along the way are built in the Moorish style and the bay's and coves were so beautiful.We have not had a swim in the Med, yet just dying to dive in.

This is the best time to cycle in Sicily, although quite hot by our standards, there is still a cooling breeze which is a life saver. I can't imagine what it must be like in July/ August - totally unplayable.

We got our first glimpse of the vineyards around Trapani, olive groves and fig groves, all looking beautiful with the backdrop of ripened wheat fields. We had a picnic lunch as a reward after the long climb back up the hill at a picnic table under some pine trees. A welcome bit of shade after the heat we worked up while climbing. From then on it was downhill to Trapani past the salt works with the skeletons of windmills silhouetted on the horizon.

We got settled into our accommodation for the night, a beautiful large, self catering apartment at Vacazione Apartment San Paolo. Then set off to take the funicular to Erice which Is a beautiful medieval town situated 750 m above sea level behind Trapani. It was probably founded by the Elymians, a native Sicilian people. It was inhabited by the Greeks, Carthaginians, Romans, Arabs and Normans. It was one of the towns in Sicily that was re-named by Mussolini in 1934 in honor of it's famous past.

We climbed the steep cobbled,narrow streets which were clothed in swirling mists to discover the Piazza Umberto where we had a delicious meal of Pasta Carbonara before taking the funicular down to catch the last bus back to the Centre of town.

Once in town we walked down the main pedestrian road Corso Vittorio Emanuele which was buzzing with people. Old and young dressed up for Saturday night, strolling through to drink at glass of wine at one of the many wine bars, have a meal or pick up a delicious gelati. Of course we ended a wonderful day with the taste of Pistachio. Nothing to beat the ice cream in Italy.

On route to San Vito Lo Capo.


The Mme Dawes taking a break.

Looking back as we approach Trapani.

A lunch spot appeared at the right time.

Entrance to Erice.

Cobbled streets of Erice - glad we were walking rather than riding.

Lots of kaggelkak for sail.

The center of Trapani.


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Best wishes,
Ian and Jenny.