Day 76. Nantes to Guenrouet.

Day 76. Nantes to Guenrouet. 87km, 5h35.

We trundled down the 103 steps looking like we had the pox after the incessant air-raids by mosquitoes throughout the night. We saw a bicycle sign heading north, so with our skimpy map and a leap of faith, we followed it. There were a few green arrows along the road which lead us to the Erdre River. Fortunately the sun stayed in the east. The signs varied from orange bicycles, to green arrows on the road, to white signboards. Somehow we managed to stay near the river and eventually reached a bicycle path with a sign promising the Nantes Brest Canal in 12 km. We were on the right track.

Like beagles on the hunt, we followed the signs, which were now more regular and consistent, along a winding route through the outskirts of towns to the canal. From then on we could cycle along the towpath, which was predominantly gravel with a few sections of very loose stones. The bikes handled the surface surprisingly well. The scenery became ever more beautiful with gentle rolling hills - so different to the big expanses along the Loire. The canal is lined with huge oak trees and there is more natural vegetation than we have seen elsewhere. 

We stopped at the small town of Blain to buy bread and pâté for lunch, and pick up a booklet from the TI which had a far better map. While having a cup of coffee at the street cafe, a very unwell-looking man was shepherded to one of the chairs. He had evidently collapsed in the street. There was much loud discussion, and then 2 ambulances arrived with sirens blaring, and 8 eager paramedics leapt out to attend. They then walked the grey unsteady fellow to an ambulance. But first the patient insisted on buying two packets of cigarettes. The French know how to prioritize!

We reached the village of Guenrouet with its attractive slate church, and had a beer while waiting for the 5pm book-in time. The village is on a small hill above the canal. There were quite a few touring boats in the "port" below; there was a festive crowd eating and drinking till late. We had a galette (local buckwheat pancake) with filling for supper, washed down with the good produce of the local cider-house. We stayed overnight at a very comfortable house, Ty Canal d'Or, conveniently close to the canal.

After doing a bit of reading, we have decided not to go on to Brest, but rather swing west off the canal in 2 days and go down to the prettier town of Vannes with its more interesting coastline. We can also get a direct train ticket to Charles de Gaulle airport from there. It means we will have two days less cycling, but we figure that we will need a few days to simmer down after being continuously on the move for 80 days.

Looking back to Nantes across the River Erdre.

By sticking to the river bank we had some idea of where we were.

Eventually we reached the canal and towpath.

The slate church in Blain.

Lunch at a lock.

Chasing barges.

Cider is served in teacups. Maybe that makes it look more respectable, or you can disguise what you're drinking.

Evening on the canal at Guenrouet.