Day 60. Puligny-Montrachet to Ciry le Noble. 66km, 4h05.
Our charming hostess, Maria Adao, chatting continuously, happily and rapidly in French, produced a magnificent spread of eggs and bacon, cakes, breads, meats, cheeses and preserves for breakfast. We were rather hesitant as we walked in as we thought that we had misunderstood the quotation in French and that the price was per person and not per room. It was too late to worry further so we tucked in royally, only to find out when we left that we had not made a mistake, and we very fortunate to have found such a fantastic place to stay.
We had breakfast with a Dutch and 2 Belgian couples who were stocking up on Burgundy wine. There was much discussion about the devastation caused by the vicious hailstorm of the previous afternoon. Jenny is sporting a number of golf ball size bruises on her legs from the hail!
We continued past the enclosed Grand Cru vineyards to Chassagne-Montrachet and then on to Santenay, where we left the vineyards behind. We had had a fascinating time in the winelands, and we felt that the substantial dent in our budget was worthwhile.
We looked for the Canal du Dheune which was supposed to run below Santenay. After a while we found it higher up on the hillside, when we saw a barge above us. We cycled alongside the canal as it climbed a ladder of deep locks to Ecuisses, where it becomes the Canal du Central. This canal links the Saone and Loire rivers. The hills rise up sharply from the Dheune river on either side with interesting views of the mixed farming activities.
As it was Sunday and we were unsure of shop opening times, which seem to be very unpredictable, we stopped at the only open restaurant in Blanzy for lunch. The decor was bright lime green, turquoise and purple, and they offered only a set menu without stating what was on it. The restaurant was filled with a crowd of local folk who looked like they were sorely in need of the influence of new genetic material. So we were really unsure what we were in for. All the dishes coming out of the kitchen were different - steak, chicken, small fried sardines - so we were at the chef's mercy. We were given an unlabeled bottle of rose, a big basket of bread, a ham and cheese salad, followed by a huge bowl of steamed mussels (both delicious), followed by a creamy soft white cheese, then homemade nougat ice-cream and coffee - all for 12 Euros each. Our second lucky strike for the day.
An easy afternoon cycle alongside the canal, with the locks going down, led us to Ciry le Noble. Here we turned off for a few kilometers to our farm accommodation (Chambres d'Hote Perrier) Again it looked pretty ramshackle on the outside, but our room was well appointed and spotless. The second time in a day that judging books by the cover came to mind.
Hail damage.
Lovely rural French countryside. Did you identify vineyards / cellars you wanted to visit beforehand, or do you wait until you're in the area? You've certainly visited a broad range! Photos and narrative are great - I always look forward to reading the following instalment!
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