Day 4. Wilton to Charlton Horethorn.

Day 4. Wilton to Charlton Horethorn. 76 Km. 5:00 hrs

It was another beautiful day on the bike. We left Pat a little later after a substantial breakfast. We have now left Route 3 and followed Route 25 and 253 signs.The road to Broad Chalk took us up a long gradual hill through a forest which set the tone for the rest of the day. 

The first 30 km was a gradual uphill through the beautiful Chalk Valley to Semley where we stopped at the Community Shop for a cup of coffee. We were served by an Indian lady curate to the Anglican Church who was doing 2 hrs of community service. We spotted quite a few of these Community Village Shops in the smaller Villages. They explained that people were moving out of the smaller villages which forced the shops to close. A movement to re-establish a shop by the community for the community was started. People can sell their produce and volunteer to do 2 hours work a day to keep the shop going. They also donate produce from their garden to be sold there. Such a fantastic initiative.

We saw a few more people on bikes and a couple from Salisbury doing a 5 day tour.

We managed to stay off the busy roads and people are generally very considerate of cyclists. As we cycled along the country roads flanked by hedgerows of Hawthorne, Hornbeam and Buddlea  the air was thick with the with the perfume of rose, jasmine and honeysuckle; the essence of the English countryside. 

After lunch in the park at Gillingham we took the wrong road so ended up on a busy road to Wincanton. A hasty u-turn, and found the small lane to Cucklington, then on to Templecombe before a steep descent to Charlton Horethorne where we spent the night with good friends Chris and Linda Ellsworth. Chris and Linda treated us to a delicious meal which included home grown veg. It was 20 years since we had last visited them in their home, Riversong, so it was lovely to catch up over a few drinks, a bowl of home-grown cherries and tasty meal.

Wincanton kept on sucking us in like a black hole - couldn't get away from it.

Solar panels looking towards Charlton Horethorne.

Day 3. Kintbury to Wilton.

Kintbury to Wilton. 72 km. 4.40 hrs.

We set off from Kintbury on a country road rather than the tow path, and made good time to Hungerford where we found a quaint coffeeshop for our morning fix. Ended up in the butchery buying sausages from the friendly young butcher who showed us all his dry-aged steak.

The road then followed the canal along a very pretty section to Great Bedwyn. Chatted to an old fellow taking his narrow boat through the locks. From Great Bedwyn we had a steep climb up to Wilton where stopped to look at the historic windmill. From here we followed the 254 cycle route heading south over the Salisbury Plain; wide open spaces of wheat which inspired Sting's Fields of Gold. We were repeatedly warned about the presence of tanks so remained wary as we cycled down the valley towards Bulford. This is an army camp; we were tailed by a military vehicle who was obviously wary of our presence especially as we kept checking our map and GPS in an area of many twists and turns. He eventually tired of us and disappeared. We had a baguette on a bench while watching 3 guys pulling underground electrical cables before we set off to Amesbury. 

After a quick wiz around Tescos and a furious disagreement with Garmin, who insisted that we should go on a busy road to Wilton via Salisbury, we wound our way down the Avon Valley through the Woodfords, (Upper, Middle and Lower). We were a bit early for our arrival in Wilton (a different one) so stopped off for a beer on side of the river at none other than The Riverside Inn - a lovely spot. 

We were blissfully unaware of Snake Hill that lay ahead. Fueled by Heineken we tackled this 12% gradient which I'm quite sure was as challenging as anything the Tour de France riders were taking on in the Alps at the same time. We then plummeted down into Wilton where after a few wrong turns we arrived at my aunt Pat's house.

A great evening was spent with Pat, cousins Pete and Sally and their families. Sally and Camilla provided a great spread, and we all sat outside for a lovely summer evening while catching up with all the Burgess news.

Day 2. Bray to Kintbury

Bray to Kintbury 79 km

We left Bray after a delicious breakfast provided by Patsy. We passed through hill and dale forests along the Kennet-Avon Canal all the way to Kintbury.

From Bray today with beautiful cycling conditions. The route started off on a busy road but turned off onto a shared dirt footpath through beautiful forests and onto a country lane and into Maidenhead where we popped into a Lidl to stock up on something for lunch. Not a good choice as LIDL sells in bulk. 

It was challenging finding our way out of Maidenhead but finally after three attempts we saw the signage for Route 2 which was well sign posted for the rest of the way. We wound our way through suburbia and onto Cox Green then we turned onto a gravel path that took us on the rough gravel route through beautiful forests and up quite a steep hill and then down through High Wycombe. This is part of the Chiltern Way. We were rewarded with beautiful views over the English countryside.

We made our way to Sonning where we waved farewell to the Thames River. Not far from Sonning Lock we joined the cycle path along the tow path next to the Kennet-Avon Canal.The canalizations of these two rivers date back from 1727. Ships were only able to navigate all the way from Reading to Bristol sixty years later. The canal was only actively used for thirty years before the opening of the Great Western Railroad. It then fell into disrepair for most of its course until it was fully restored in 1990.

The going was slow along the 44 km that we cycled on the tow path today. The towpath was gravel most of the way with short grass sections and in places it turned into single track. The section between Reading and Newbury had gates or barriers with three sections where we had to unpack the bikes and lift them over. Gosh we had forgotten how heavy steel bikes are!!

Most of the way there were longboats moored alongside the canal and at Woolhampton it looked like a city of longboats. Quite a few along the way were derelict and looked abandoned. As we approached Newbury we saw an increasing number of longboats navigating up and down the canal.

We were surprised at how easily we got through Reading on the towpath. It is a beautiful town with a large number of fast food places on either side of the canal. It does not sound beautiful but they have managed to make it look quite attractive.

Lunch was along the canal close to the Cunning Man Pub 8 km about of Reading.

Then on to  Addermaston another quaint waterside village, clearly a hit with the boat people. West Thatcham was the last village we passed through before the route took us into Newbury which has a well known race course on the outskirts.  Kintbury was a few kilometers further on where we are staying in a very comfortable Annex 500 m out of the Centre of town. Dinner was good old pub fare - fish and chips at the Blue Ball which was delicious.

Day 1. London to Bray

London to Bray. 79 km.

The two old ladies, the Mme Dawes, were brisling with excitement and all pumped up with joints oiled in Gilly and Mitch's garden. We had to wait for National Railway to accept bikes on board which only happens after nine o'clock. 

A short cycle to Orpington Station, and we caught the fast train to Charing Cross. We set off through Trafalgar Square, down past Scotland Yard who disappointingly showed us no interest and then over Westminster  Bridge, and promptly got lost in search of Putney Bridge. Garmin decided Putney Bridge doesn't exist, so we did a few circuits through Vauxhall before Jen got some directions from the locals. We missed Putney Bridge completely, Garmin perked up and we headed through Richmond Park, where we were happy to get out of the traffic for a while. The grass looks a bit like home in February after the warm summer here, but the trees are amazing. 

We then found the Thames again, and the Thames Valley Cycle path. We spent the rest of the day close to the river on towpaths on either side. It was perfect conditions on a mostly quiet route - some gravel, some tar, a bit of grass and the odd section of loose stones. It is a beautiful section, a warm day with plenty of rowing and boat activity. Waitrose supplied a lunch of soon-to-expire sandwiches which we wolfed down on the river bank near the pretty town of Kingston. 

We stopped at Hampton Court Palace to look at the impressive garden, but mostly to use the free loos. The Thames meanders a lot so the GPS was really useful, apart from a section in Staines where roadworks obliterated all senses of direction. We fortunately missed the turning to a route over some steep hills to Windsor, and ended up sticking to the river path. Windsor is certainly attractive but was a mess of small tourists who looked at everything through the lenses of cameras - a nightmare on a bike. 

We had the obligatory photo with Queen E who was in residence and must have waved at us from a distant window. We crossed back over the Thames onto a great path to Bray where much-needed cold water, tea and a shower awaited us at Patsy's BnB. 

Off to have a photo in front of the Fat Duck, before sneaking around the corner for a pint,
pork pie and mushy peas.

The Mme Dawes are eager to get on the road.

Starting from Charing Cross. 

Richmond Park - hasn't been so dry since 1976.

But the forested areas still quite green.

Along the Thames.

Bridge at Kingston.

Hampton Court garden where Henry VIII swopped queens every few years.

The village of Bray - there are more Michellin stars in this picture than in des Champs-Elysees.

Day 14. Palermo to Terrasini. 48km.

Palermo

Day 12. Around Mount Etna (by train)