Wobbling Winos: Day 27. Boursault to Chateau Thierry.

Day 27. Boursault to Chateau Thierry. 45km. 3h00.

An early morning disagreement with Garmin, who planned a very hilly ride for us away from the Champagne Villages, had us silence her. We followed the map along a very scenic route on both sides of the River Marne. Being a Sunday, the route was quiet. We had a clear morning with a light breeze with a small village every few kilometers.

Initially we had a stream of cyclists in the opposite direction, taking part in what looked like a team cycle race. For most of the day we stayed in the vineyards, with a few famous names like Paul Roger cropping up. We stopped in the village of Verneuil for a tasting at Jaques Copin Champagne House. They had an Blanc de Blanc - dry with strong mineral characteristics. We splurged on a bottle for a special occasion. It will hopefully be worth carrying the extra kilograms.

After a great morning of cycling with lots of interest along the way, we reached the old town of Chateau Thierry as the weather began to turn and the rain set in for the afternoon. We took refuge in a riverside restaurant we we enjoyed a delicious meal of lamb shank and pot au fuer (beef stew with marrow bones) with excellent Leffe beer.

We could not book into our accommodation until later, but there was a big fair, the Fete of St Jean, an annual event honoring Jean de la Fontaine (born in Chateau Thierry in 1621). He was the writer of hundreds of fables still read to children throughout the French-speaking world. Cartoons from his fables are seen all over the town. We watched military bands, a dance school performing on a stage in the main square and even a Scottish band playing bagpipes.

Our accommodation for the night was in a small Chambre d'Hote just off the the main square up a little alleyway. It was an eclectic place owned by a slightly eccentric artistic woman - lots of over the top decoration, but old world and charming. We had a baguette and cheese supper before heading down into the town to see the fair. It was a real fun fair in the old sense - lots of rides for children of all ages, including hectic vertical catapults and all sorts of emetic experiences. It was great to see so many people of all ages having such fun - ice-cream, candy-floss, and Canada-Dry.

At 11.00 pm the crowd congregated on the Marne River bank. There was a long-winded speech over in French over the PA system thanking everyone involved in the festival from St Jean himself to the lady who painted the mayor's wife's toenails. Then followed the most spectacular fireworks display either of us have ever seen, also all reflected in the water.