Day 30. Paris by bike.

Day 30. Paris by bike.  34 km.

After an unexpectedly good night at the StayCity apartment, we set off across Paris on the Mmes Dawes who were very sprightly sans baggage. Destination Roseraie du Val-de-Marne or Roseraie de L'Haÿ in L'Haÿ-les-Roses, south of Paris. 

This is a very famous rose garden with13,100 rose bushes (3200 varieties) and was the first garden in the world dedicated exclusively to roses. The garden has modern French and foreign roses on one side, the formal rose garden with a reflecting pool in the center, and the old garden roses and classic roses on the other side. The huge dome covered by one variety, Alexandre Girault, makes a central focal point. There is a big emphasis on the vertical element with many very effective pergolas, arches and various other structures. The roses are arranged in 13 formal gardens each with a different theme.

While many of the old varieties were past their best and there was a lot of disease, especially black spot, as a result of the poor weather and water-logging, it was still worth the trip. To get there we followed the instructions of Garmin who was in a friendly mood for a change. She took us straight through the centre of Paris past the Notre Dame and out the other side. 

On the way back we stopped off at the Luxembourg Gardens and then stuck to the left bank of the Seine past the Musee d'Orsay, crossing over to Jardin des Tuileries. From there we cycled on the the cobbles of the Avenue des Champs-Élysées in the thick of taxis to reach the Arc de Triomphe.  

Mission accomplished - time for bottle of bubbles. We enjoyed the Blanc de Blanc from Copin Champagne House which we had carried with us from Verneuil. 

Day 29. Trilport to Paris

Day 29. Trilport to Paris. 60km, 4h18.

After our French breakfast of breads and jams (no distance sustaining eggs) with our friendly hostess we set off on the busy road into Meaux. There we stopped at the cathedral and the adjacent Bousset Garden, a walled garden with mixed borders and clipped hedges in the shape of a bishop's mitre, dating back to 1642.

Finding an easy route into Paris was quite a concern. There was a bit of information on the web about a cycle path along the Canal de L'Ourq, an old canal coming from an area north of Chateau Thierry. We were not sure where to find it, but the TI in Meaux gave us directions, and we got onto the pathway near the Railway station. The canal follows a tortuous route to Claye Souilly. This section is mostly a muddy jeep track, but in reasonable condition, and fortunately it wasn't raining. Thereafter it straightens out and is paved, so we had an easy traffic free run to Place de Stalingrad in Paris. We could not believe our luck. 

From there Garmin kicked in and we found our accommodation near the Gare de l'Est without a problem. The only reasonable accommodation we could find for 1 night was a studio apartment, Staycity. What a pleasant surprise: friendly, clean and well-equipped, ability to self-cater (roast chicken and roast potatoes from the supermarket across the Boulevard Magenta, with a good value Burgundy Chardonnay) and importantly a secure garage for the bikes.

But first we went down to the corner pavement cafe for a celebratory Grimbergen beer. That's P2P done - 1780 kms. A great trip and we loved every moment. Four countries (if you count Luxembourg); interesting histories - much of it very sad, but important to see; lots of pork and potato, but a few excellent and memorable meals; great scenery - the weather could have cooperated a bit more although the cycling conditions were mostly fine; lovely wines - the German whites were a revelation; good company - so good to have Pat and Andrew with us for ten days; only two punctures and a few minor gear issues, but importantly no accidents or illness; good cycle paths or quiet roads, with a few challenges thrown in.

All that remains is an obligatory cycle down the Avenue des Champs-Élysées - with the Paris traffic to make it a bit more interesting. 

Bousset Garden. Beheading was once common in France. Wonder why this lady was sent to the guillotine.

The "weeping rock" in Bousset Garden.

Along the Canal de L'Ourq.

Further along. Very muddy in parts, but no cars.

A welcome signpost - on the right track.

Boulle on the banks.

Quayside as we arrive in Paris.

Cheers!!

Day 28 Chateau Thierry to Trilport

Day 28 Chateau Thierry to Trilport. 52km, 3h25.

It was rather wet and grey when we started off this morning. We had to weave our way through the fun park down to the river. The site of the carnival had been cleaned already and it was a pleasure cycling through it. (Except that Ian took a tumble when his front wheel slid on an electrical hose pipe so the locals learnt a bit of Afrikaans).

Unfortunately the path along the river did not last for very long and we turned up onto the D969 which was a bit busy, Ian set the Garmin and it took us on small secondary roads through the vineyards. Once we crossed the river we cycled through wheat, and maize fields with a view of the vineyards which stayed with us until just before Trilport.

At Saacy sur Marne we stopped to pick up a Pain and delicious cheese and pate from the local Charcuterie. We are back in the France that we know and love, a Boulangerie and Charcuterie in every village. We just made it in time, as they close at 12:00. One has to plan quite well if you want to buy a picnic en route.

We had a hilly second half of the day through small villages until we arrived at what Garmin indicated was our accommodation for the night. There were no Chambres d'Hote signs and the area looked a bit crummy. Ian checked the info in Garmin and it had taken us to the wrong village,

It has the same postal code as the village we had booked in. We had another 4 km to go, downhill this time.

Triport is an industrial village on the outskirts of Meaux, both parents of the family we are staying with, work in Paris. This means a 1:30 journey by train one way quite a thought to travel 3 hrs a day to your job. 

They were very accommodating as they allowed us to heat our pre cooked lasagne in their oven and to eat it at their dinning room table, while they watched Spain being beaten by Italy.. 

We are in Brie cheese country, Meaux is famous for the Brie de Meaux that is made here, simply delicious.

Leaving our interesting overnight B&B

The ultimate touring bike. Saw it in the main square in Chateau Thierry.

Day 27. Boursault to Chateau Thierry.

Day 27. Boursault to Chateau Thierry. 45km. 3h00.

An early morning disagreement with Garmin, who planned a very hilly ride for us away from the Champagne Villages, had us silence her. We followed the map along a very scenic route on both sides of the River Marne. Being a Sunday, the route was quiet. We had a clear morning with a light breeze with a small village every few kilometers. 

Initially we had a stream of cyclists in the opposite direction, taking part in what looked like a team cycle race. For most of the day we stayed in the vineyards, with a few famous names like Paul Roger cropping up. We stopped in the village of Verneuil for a tasting at Jaques Copin Champagne House. They had an Blanc de Blanc - dry with strong mineral characteristics. We splurged on a bottle for a special occasion. It will hopefully be worth carrying the extra kilograms. 

After a great morning of cycling with lots of interest along the way, we reached the old town of Chateau Thierry as the weather began to turn and the rain set in for the afternoon. We took refuge in a riverside restaurant we we enjoyed a delicious meal of lamb shank and pot au fuer (beef stew with marrow bones) with excellent Leffe beer.

We could not book into our accommodation until later, but there was a big fair, the Fete of St Jean, an annual event honoring Jean de la Fontaine (born in Chateau Thierry in 1621). He was the writer of hundreds of fables still read to children throughout the French-speaking world. Cartoons from his fables are seen all over the town. We watched military bands, a dance school performing on a stage in the main square and even a Scottish band playing bagpipes. 

Our accommodation for the night was in a small Chambre d'Hote just off the the main square up a little alleyway. It was an eclectic place owned by a slightly eccentric artistic woman - lots of over the top decoration, but old world and charming. We had a baguette and cheese supper before heading down into the town to see the fair. It was a real fun fair in the old sense - lots of rides for children of all ages, including hectic vertical catapults and all sorts of emetic experiences. It was great to see so many people of all ages having such fun - ice-cream, candy-floss, and Canada-Dry.

At 11.00 pm the crowd congregated on the Marne River bank. There was a long-winded speech over in French over the PA system thanking everyone involved in the festival from St Jean himself to the lady who painted the mayor's wife's toenails. Then followed the most spectacular fireworks display either of us have ever seen, also all reflected in the water.

Great cycling conditions through the wheatlands with vineyards on the south-facing slopes.

We stopped here for a tasting.

Mme Dawes feeling the effect of the local produce.

Our interesting B&B.

A real fun fair.